Monday, February 6, 2017

Bahrain... a poem by Aneeta Khoso


~bahrain~


FINISH YOUR HOMEWORK!
DONT SAY A WORD!
DONT GET IT WRONG!
ILL MAKE SURE IT HURTS!

please listen
let me explain
they took my pen
i tried to complain

THIS IS A HANGER
I WILL UNTANGLE
USE AS A WHIP
YOU'LL NEVER FORGET

they took my toys
and my lunch
they took my joy
my feelings are hurt

WHAT FEELINGS
YOURE ONLY ELEVEN
A SILLY CHILD
I'LL TEACH YOU A LESSON

look, look, look at this
aren't you proud of me
i got an A minus

LOOK AT WHAT
TEAR IT UP
WHAT GOOD'S A MINUS
YOU HAVE NO WORTH

i am sorry
for what ive done
being born
as your son

Wednesday, December 28, 2016

English Mahaul



(inspired by a real life story)

Shahzadi (Her)

She hurriedly made her way to the upscale market. It was 7 pm on a Friday and she was expecting the usual crowd at the famous coffee shop. "English Mahaul" is which she had nicknamed the scene she always came across every weekend on the urban hangout places of Islamabad. Lots of young girls and guys, dressed in western wear, smoking, eating, laughing away seemingly without any worry in the world.

Well all her worries are also going to go away as well very soon, she hoped. The call a few days ago has given her hope that maybe her family will finally accept her back in their fold. It was the first time she had talked to her eldest brother in 4 years, who had called her. The last time she met him was when her mother had passed away. He was the head of the family now as their father had died when she was young.

"Shahzadi, my eldest son is getting married", her brother said. "This is the first wedding in my children and I want the whole family to be there".

She was overjoyed over the invitation as it was the first time that her elder brother had invited her for something. This also gave her hope that now maybe after all these years she will be accepted. Her sisters have always supported her but it was her brothers who had never understood her. They had always shunned her.

She was already making plans to stay in Faisalabad now that it seemed the brothers were turning around. It will be good to stay close to the family and see them often. Her rented room in a slum area of Islamabad always was a lonely abode after she went home in the evenings.

She had come here one last time before she started her 4 hours journey home tomorrow. The English Mahaul always yielded good money and it was always worth the multiple bus/wagon trips to come here. She needed the extra cash tonight.

"Sister, may Allah give you a handsome groom", she implored loudly while following a beautiful young girl. She knew the trick was to be persistent till a point until the "customer" yielded some money from their purses. She however had one principle: if someone refused flatly then she would not be pushy and move on to another customer.

She has always looked at the environment here with part amusement part wonderment. This was an unreal world to her. An apparition that she witnessed every day for a few hours. People here seemed to be from a place where there was no pain, no sadness. Only happiness. From afar they all looked so content and happy with life that she often wondered what was the magic potion they have access to which she has been denied in life. However she was also old and wise enough to realize that it was all an illusion. These people also had problems and issues in their lives, secrets they rather not let on their faces. It was more of a facade and they were apt in acting.


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Sheraz (Him)

His parents had named him Sheraz when he was born. He was their fourth child. Two more were to follow in the proceeding years. The family had celebrated the birth of a son with much fanfare as it is customary to do so. He was the third one.

He was born one month premature so had faced health issues during his childhood. Often he would not have the boisterous energy that the rest of the boys his age did therefore his mother used to dote on him a lot and would ensure that he is well secured and protected against the elements. He was also a sensitive child from the start, not rough and rowdy like his other brothers. Due to his weak stature he would often sit and play with his two sisters than go out with his brothers. Sports required too much energy and attention.

His siblings were always tasked to look after him whenever he went out with them. His elder sister was always very caring. His brothers were a little careless but mostly had good intentions.

The first time his life changed was when his father died when he was six years old. All of a sudden the hierarchy in his home changed and his elder brother Imran became the head of the family. Imran had to leave school and started looking after his father's modest spice shop. His mother went into depression for a few months but somehow managed to pull herself out of it for the sake of her children.

New responsibilities had turned Imran into a serious and strict individual. Financial burdens had made him short tempered and aggressive. He no longer smiled like he did previously and it was increasingly becoming difficult to be in his company. All the kids would scurry away as soon as he got home. Only his mother was the one who was able to communicate with him pleasantly.




_________________________________________________________________________________

Shahzadi (Her)

The wedding was fun despite the lewd comments from a few of her family members. She mostly ignored them as there was no point in reacting to their nonsense. As usual the best part was the reunion with her sisters whom she loved very much. Although they always stayed in constant touch with each other over the phone but meeting face to face was usually a challenge. They lived in Faisalabad and she in Islamabad now.

Both her sisters were happily married women. Though they had financial challenges but they did not let that deter them. Her elder's sister, Zahida, husband was an electrician and had set up a small shop with one of his friends. Farzana's husband, Fazl, was a driver and drove a public transport wagon. Both of them had children. Out of the two sisters Farzana was her favorite as she was also closer to her age.

Her brothers had met her cordially during the wedding and it was heartening to see them thaw a little. Previously they used to ignore her completely in gatherings but in this wedding they acknowledged her existence which felt good. It gave her hope that now she should be able to settle back in her home town amidst her family. She can finally be home.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sheraz (Him)


He used to enjoy going to school. His teachers found him a bright student with a keen potential to learn and understand. However the rest of the boys in his class would often make fun of him because of his physical stature but that would not deter him. He had made a couple of friends who were his constant companions in school.

Despite the financial burdens at home his mother insisted on all her children, with the exception of Imran, getting education. Therefore they were all enrolled in public government schools where school fees was almost negligible. In the afternoons, after school, all the siblings had odd jobs to supplement the family income.

Sheraz also worked as an apprentice in a wood shop.

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Shahzadi (Her)

Loud knocking on her door woke her from her afternoon slumber. She hurriedly rushed to the door as she could hear wailing and screaming coming from the verandah.

"Fazl is dead!" Zahida told her. Farzana and the kids were screaming in the courtyard. Farzana was beating her chests and moaning loudly. She went and tried to hold her in a tight hug. The kids had gotten scared after looking at their mother's reaction and were crying in confusion.

Fazl was killed in a road accident earlier that day.

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Sheraz (Him)

Things changed for him again when he turned 11. He was confused as to what was happening with him. His body was betraying him in ways he could not understand.

After much hesitation he approached his mother. She took him to the local doctor. The doctor after his examination gave them the verdict.

Imran was livid!  He refused to keep Sheraz in the house. His mother and sisters implored and begged him to let the boy be but Imran had turned a deaf ear to their pleas.

He dragged Sheraz by the arm and threw him out of the main gate of the house. "Don't you dare show your face here again" he thundered, "we disown you and don't want to have anything to do with you".

"You are a shame for us and I will not tolerate this disrespect of the family".

Sheraz was thoroughly scared and bewildered as he was unable to comprehend his crime . He did not understand what was his fault, what has he done wrong.

However the impact of his punishment became evident immediately. None of his neighbors took him in. He did not know where to go and what to do. He slept on the pavement the first couple of weeks. Ate what he could find in the garbage cans or begged at times. He had also lost his apprenticeship at the wood shop. He was too ashamed to go to school and ask his teachers for help.

After a couple of months on the streets he came across a group of hermaphrodites who were part of the a travelling circus called "the lucky Irani circus". They took him in and thus he became part of their troupe.

Guru was the one who helped him to understand what was happening to him. She helped him realize his new identity and reality. He finally comprehended he no longer had the same rights as his other siblings did. Guru also made clear the terms of engagement that he will have to abide by if he was to live with them.

He was too young to live on his own. The streets were not a safe place for a young person. He had no choice.

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Sheraz/Shahzadi (It)

He changed his identity from Sheraz to Shahzadi. She started dancing in the travelling circus when she turned 15. Guru and her troupe helped in her transition.

Dance, sex and drugs were her lifestyle for the next 15 years of her life. She had remained in touch with her mother and sisters. In the beginning her brothers had always refused to see or even acknowledge her. However after a few years she was able to meet her mother and sisters occasionally but her return to the family fold was still forbidden. She was allowed to attend her mother's funeral.

When she turned 30 one of her fellow dancer was brutally murdered by one of her amours. This jolted her to the core and she decided to leave the circus and that lifestyle.

Now for the past 12 years she had been begging on the streets, deeming it more respectable than her previous lifestyle. Hers has been a lonely journey based on pure survival instinct.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sheraz/Shahzadi (It)

The day after the funeral all the family got together to decide what needed to be done about Farzana and her three children.

After much debate and heated discussion it became apparent that none of the brothers will be in a position, either intentionally or unintentionally, to support Farzana and her family. Imran being the pseudo head of the family categorically said that he already had a lot of responsibilities on his plate thus will not be able to bear additional burden.

Farzana ultimately took a decision to go out and look for work. However it was evident that she alone will not be able to manage.

At the end Shahzadi stepped forward and placed her hand on her sister's head and her family, undertaking their responsibility. She quickly realized that her dream of coming back home and being accepted is no longer possible.

The next day she bought a ticket back to Islamabad and the English Mahaul.



-------------------------------------------------   The End ------------------------------------------------------------








Wednesday, September 23, 2015

A Ring from the past


Present day:


The phone rang when she was in the middle of a crucial meeting in the office. Normally she would have ignored it but the caller identity had jolted her. "why is he calling after all these years?", she wondered. For a few moments she debated with herself whether to pick up the phone or not.

She excused herself from the meeting to take that call, curiosity more than anything else prompting her actions.

"Hello", she said

"Hello', he replied, and after a pregnant pause said, "it's me". How can I possibly forget your voice even after all these years, she wondered to herself.

"what can I do for you", she asked formally.

"sorry to bother you but I have a huge favor to ask of you"' he said somewhat hesitantly.

Now what, she wondered, hasn't he already taken as much as he can from me all those years ago. "what is it?", she asked cautiously.

"my mother is not well at all. she is seriously sick. she wants to meet you. can you come to Lahore soon?" he asked.

"I know I don't deserve this favor but consider it my mother's dying wish", he added.

She was quite taken aback by this request. Although the rare occasions on which she had met his mother had been quite cordial and enjoyable experiences, but she still failed to understand why a dying woman would want to see her, a girl living almost 400 kilometers away in another city.

"I don't know what to say. This is quite unexpected for me", she hedged.

"I can understand that but please I request you to please consider her wish", he pleaded. "I don't know why she wants to see you but she has been asking about you persistently for the past few days."

"Hmmm, let me think about it. I will let you know", she ended the call on that note.

                                               -------------------------------------------
It was Friday today, two days after the phone call, and she took off from work after lunch and found herself driving on the motorway towards Lahore. She had a long debate with herself about the wisdom of accepting his request. As usual the battle was between her heart and mind: a war that has been going on for decades now, with as usual no clear winner in sight. Her mind was categorically against the idea whereas her heart was flirting with the notion, just like in the past. The final deciding factor was the fact that he had said that his mother was dying; In the end she was unable to deny a dying woman her wish.

Long drives always soothed her. With her kind of music blaring from the speakers at high volume, she was always able to think and contemplate. And today was no different, with the car hurtling at a speed of 120 Km/hour her mind also took her back 10 years.

========================================================================

A trip down memory lane


10 years ago:


She rushed through the traffic in order to get to the office on time. There were some senior people over from Lahore office on a 3 days official visit and she had already missed the first day yesterday as she taken the day off. Thank God I have reached on time, she congratulated herself while parking her car in front of the office. It wouldn't look good to be tardy in front of the regional bosses, she again berated herself.

"Rania, did you meet a Hussain when you went to Lahore office five months ago?", asked her colleague Sakina. "Yeah, briefly.", she replied while settling down at her desk. She vaguely recalled a tall guy with intense tawny eyes whom she had met very briefly in Lahore office few months back. It was a hurried visit so she did not have time to sit and chat with anyone for long.

" Well he is here since yesterday with his team and has been conducting interviews", Sakina said with a keen sparkle in her eyes.

"Interviews? what interviews?", she asked.

"Apparently the preparations for the Islamabad launch has begun. He is here to hire the new project team.", Sakina elaborated.

Just as they were talking the front door of the hall opened and she glanced towards it. Hussain entered with a couple of other guys. And at that moment she had no idea what happened but it seemed that time stopped for a few seconds and everything went into a slow motion. He was laughing with a colleague and her gaze became fixed on him. It was momentary, but then she shook herself out of it, mentally laughing at her own silliness.

She got down to work. It was a busy day at the office with the regional bosses around and the interview candidates teeming the reception area. At around 11:00 am she glanced up to see Hussain sitting in front of her.

"Hello, I believe we have met before", he said conversationally. He really has what she called tiger eyes, she observed.

"Ahem. in Lahore.", she nodded.

"where can I get a cup of coffee here?", he asked. "Well, coffee will be difficult as we mostly have tea drinkers here", she ventured.

"Fine then tea it is please", he requested. She ordered tea for him through the intercom.

That was the sum total of their interaction that day. He got back to interviewing people which went on till very late in the evening. She got busy in her own work and the day passed by quickly.

The next day in the office was very quiet or so it felt like after yesterday, she thought to herself. The bigwigs from Lahore were also no where to be seen when she got in the next morning. Things seemed back to normal.

An hour before lunch Hussain walked in and came straight to her desk, plopping down on the chair in front of her. Sakina who was sitting next to her looked at him flirtatiously and said " can I ask you something?", she asked. After getting the nod from him she further asked "what is your star?".

Rania mentally rolled her eyes at the question as she knew that Sakina loved to flirt and especially with guys whom she thought could be good prospects. Here starts the flirting, she thought, and I will have to bear through it as he is sitting in front of me.

"what do you think my star is?" Hussain evaded the question good naturedly. "Scorpio", Sakina quipped.

"now how did you know that is my star?!", Hussain answered flirtatiously. Sakina just smiled coyly in response.

Then he turned towards Rania and asked "what is your star?". She looked him squarely in the eyes and replied a tad sarcastically "what do you think my star is?". he seemed a little taken aback with my mirror response for a moment, but then recovered quickly.

This triangular bantering went on for a little while, until he left for Lahore.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Two steps forward one step back


For the next few months Hussain was a regular visitor in Islamabad office as he had to set up the complete pre-launch team. He and Rania became friends over the course of time. He was an intelligent, sharp guy who was very well read and a great conversationalist. He had a magnetism about him which drew people to him especially women. Although Rania herself was a very well balanced and intelligent woman who preferred intelligence over beauty but she was also not immune to his aura.

As they got closer she realized that for the first time in her life she was falling in love. She had never been the one to flirt with guys even in her college and university days. She was always very focused at the task at hand, whatever that may be at that time. Some people might call it boring but she did not care as she knew what she wanted in life.

It was a new experience for her to feel this deeply and passionately for someone. At the beginning she just savored the sensations and let it run its course. However she was too shy to put it into words in front of him. To her he also seemed interested in her as they became really close in the coming months.

For most of the time she was convinced that he felt the same way as she did. But she was too afraid to ask him about it. Hers was a young love felt for the very first time and she was nurturing that love like a new born child; she was unable and unwilling to let that love get hurt. So she kept on foolishly protecting her heart and not paying heed to her mind which was urging her to take the risk and talk to him.

There were times when she felt that something was holding him back. He was also a darkly intense person who, it seemed to her, had a dark side that he was unwilling to share with her. The mystery of him just intensified his appeal. At times he looked like as he was nursing some deep wound in his soul which no matter how much she tried, was unable to reach.

Their relationship, if it could be called that, was like a salsa dance: two steps forward, one back. He never told her how he actually felt about her and their relationship was progressing under the guise of being the "best of friends". It was also a long distance thing as they were both living in different cities.

He did tell her that he was an only child and that his father had passed away when he was 11 years old. He was very cautious when he talked about his mother not divulging much. His mother seemed like a strong lady who had single handedly raised a son. He was a very obedient son and always did what she asked.

                                        ----------------------------------------------------------

The Mother ship


Months turned into years and they continued as it is. He never ventured beyond being "best friends" and she never challenged the status quo. Logically she knew that this will not continue forever and something got to give at some point but her heart was hoping against hope.

Then one day she met his mother.

She was in Karachi on an official trip and coincidentally he was also there with his mother visiting some friends of hers.

"I want you to meet my mother", he told her over the phone. Her heart skipped a beat as she thought, finally the time has come. Previously she had visited him many times in Lahore over the years and he had never showed any inclination for the two of them to meet.


"Sure, I would love to", she said, "I will be done from my meeting by 5 pm. We can meet in the evening".

"Ok. But there will be Ammi's family friends as well with us. I hope that is ok with you?", he asked.

"Family friends hmmmm....  tell me about them", Rania queried.

"Well aunty is Ammi's old friend from years back. It will be her, her son Saad and then her daughters or at least the eldest one Amina. I have also met them for the first time on this trip. They are really nice people. Have been taking us sight seeing and shopping.", he explained.

"That's nice", she hedged, not sure she was comfortable meeting his mother for the first time in front of all these strangers.

"you will like them", he cajoled, "it will be fun, you will see."

"hmmm...okay." she agreed.

Later that evening she met his mother for the first time.

His mother had a lively personality. She was like a diva full of contradictions and pizzazz. Rania was pleasantly surprised as somehow she had formed a picture of a solemn, sober widowed matriarch who would be a serious conversationalist.

"I am so glad to meet you finally", his mother said, "have heard so much about you". Rania was a little taken aback with this first intro as she always thought that Hussain never talked about her with his mother.

"She has also heard a lot about you Ammi." Hussain quipped.

"You are saying this", his mother responded mischievously, " she hasn't said it so I will not believe your word".

"Nahin nahin Aunty, he is right. I have heard a lot about you" Rania interjected hurriedly, "Hussain is always telling me about you."

This set the tone for the rest of the interactions with his mother for the next 5 days. Rania was highly amused to find out that Hussain's mother was a big Salman Khan (Indian movie star) fan and that she had dragged everyone to see one of his movies, much to Hussain's chargain. Her favorite song was Shakira's "hips don't lie". Her personality was totally opposite to her son's. She was vivacious where he was serious, she was sometimes loud where he liked to be quiet and sober. She was definitely more fun loving than him and embraced life with a twinkle in her eye and smile on her lips.

The family friends turned out to be fun as well. Her mother's friend was just like her, full of life and laughter. Saad and Amina were also very fun and cordial people. Amina was particularly close to Hussain's mother and the two of them would often go shopping in the afternoons together. They enjoyed the same taste in movies and music as well.

"So how many people are there in your house?", his mother asked Rania on the last day.

"It's just me and my mother", she replied.

" No siblings?"

"none", she replied again

" It must have been difficult for your mother to manage things on her own", his mother mused.

Rania nodded silently.

                                             --------------------------------------------------------

Back to the Present:


A loud horn jolted her out of her memories. She quickly gave way to the impatient car behind her and shook herself out of her reverie.

Well it's all water under the bridge now, she thought, I am just going there more out of curiosity and empathy then anything else. Let's see where this altruism lands me.

She finally managed to enter Lahore and found herself driving towards his house. She was both nervous and apprehensive about this meeting after so many years. She wasn't sure about her own first reaction on seeing him again. Although time had healed somewhat but very occasionally she did wonder about the unanswered questions that he had left behind in his wake.

She rang the bell and waited politely. She remembered Hussain had once told him that they had a butler of sorts in his house who looked after the house affairs. Waiting for the butler to open the door, she was caught off guard when Hussain opened the door himself.

For a very long moment they just looked at each other. Old memories once again came rushing back to her. She remembered how she used to feel butterflies in her stomach whenever they met. The light giddy feeling at that time would always affirm to her the depth of her own feelings for him. However the absence of that butterfly effect was quite stark this time. She did not feel anything at all. This absence in itself brought a calmness to her and she took a deep breath.

Time had not been kind to him. He looked gaunt and stressed with much more grey hair then she remembered. Maybe his mother's illness had brought him to this point, she wondered.

"Assalaam o Alaikum", he greeted, "please come in".

She walked into a huge foyer with a delicate chandelier.

"I can't thank you enough for your kindness", he started, "I wasn't sure if you would come or not and Ammi has been constantly asking about you. Thank you so much for coming all the way".

"I couldn't deny a dying woman her wish", she said simply.

"I understand. I know you have come for Ammi. You were always kindhearted",

And yet you were unkind to me in the end, she thought. "Shall we go see her", she replied instead. Surprisingly she was not inclined at all to linger in his company. It was a complete contrast to previous times when she would sit for hours with him and they would talk about everything or anything under the sun.

His mother's room smelled strongly of disinfectant. The room has been converted into a semi hospital room with adjustable bed, IV drip and oxygen tank. A heart monitor was also beeping quietly in the corner.

Rania walked up to the bed and was shocked to see his mother's condition. She was a skeleton of her old self. With pale skin, coarse hair and sunken eyes she was unrecognizable. Gone was the vivaciousness and sparkle.

"Ammi", Hussain nudged gently, " Ammi look who is here".

She opened her eyes with much difficulty and tried to focus in the direction her son was pointing towards. Rania stepped closer to give her a better line of sight.

"Rania?", she questioned after some time, " Rania is that really you?".

Suddenly she started to cry loudly. The pitch of her cries was in contrast to her weak appearance. It seemed she was opening a long barred floodgate.

"Forgive me Rania, please forgive me. I have wronged you greatly", she wailed. " I have broken your heart and I know Allah will never forgive me for this."

"Please Aunty, don't say that", She cajoled, " you have not done anything to me".

"Oh yes but I have", she interjected strongly, " I knew you and Hussain loved each other but I disrespected that love and tossed it aside. I know you think Hussain is the one who has betrayed you. But it was me, always me".

Rania was pained to hear this blunt confession. It threatened to open old wounds which she was not willing to expose anymore.

"I became selfish and self centered."

"You see Rania, Hussain is not my real son. He is adopted", she revealed haltingly. " I was unable to bear children and my late husband one day decided to adopt a child. As destiny would have it Hussain's parents, who were our very close friends, died in a plane crash shortly afterwards. None of Hussain's real relatives were willing to take him in. He was two years old at that time. My husband and I then decided to adopt him and give him a place in our home and hearts".

"In the beginning it was just the three of us and then for years it was just the two of us when my husband also passed away. Over time I became extremely possessive about him." she continued weakly. " He was always a very obedient son, always. Never refused me anything".

"Baba, baba!", just then a five year old stormed into the room and straight into Hussain's arms.

"did you finish your  homework?", Hussain asked lovingly of the child.

Although Rania knew about Hussain's children but it was an emotional blow to see his first born for the first time. The child represented lost opportunities of her life.

"Aliyzeh come back and finish your homework", Amina walked into the room after the child. She hesitated after seeing Rania and then greeted her pleasantly.

"Hello Rania, I am glad to see that you came". " Come Aliyzeh, we should leave baba alone with dadi and aunty. They have some important stuff to discuss." Amina whisked the child away.

Rania was going through a roller coaster of emotions. Aunty's confession, Aliyzeh and coming face to face with Amina was getting too much for her. She wanted to rush out of the room.

She stood up to leave the room but Hussain's mother held her hand. " I made him choose between you and me", she said, " Amina was my choice, I emotionally blackmailed him and made him bow towards my choice. I didn't have anything against you personally but I just could not bear him loving anyone more than me. It was unacceptable to me. Please forgive me".

Rania took a calming breath and squeezed his mother's hand.  "It's ok Aunty. All of this does not matter anymore. Years have passed and I have moved on."

"But please forgive me still", the frail woman insisted, "It is a heavy burden on my heart which can only be eased if you forgive me". She pleaded.

"I forgive you", said Rania.

On that note she gently extracted her hand from her grasp and walked out of the room. The peaceful look on his mother's face stayed with her for a while.



She remembered how years ago one fine day a common friend had passingly told her about Hussain's marriage. To say she was shocked was an understatement. They were still in touch and Hussain had never once hinted otherwise. He never once told her about his wedding. She was hurt beyond belief.

She always considered them to be the best of friends at the very least. Although he had never confessed his love to her ever but she was hundred percent confident of the fact that at least they were the best of friends to each other and that the trust between them was invincible. It was brutal to have that trust shattered so callously one fine day. It was heart breaking to realize that he did not even think her worthy of being part of his happiness. Had he told her she would have wished him well despite everything. She always wondered why he never told her himself.

She had not demanded any explanation from him. And till this date he never gave any explanation. All she did was send him a text informing him that she knew and that from there on wards she never wanted to stay in touch with him anymore. She forbade him to contact her again. He complied very obediently.



" I did love you, you know", Hussain said loudly from behind.

Rania paused for a moment but then continued to walk out of his house.



                 ______________________________  END_________________________



























Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Road trip: Return journey final day - Saturday 10.12.2011 - Multan to Islamabad



We were woken up by a peremptory knock at our door at 8:00 am sharp. Apparently the guest house management had misunderstood Usman last night and had thought he had asked to prepare our breakfast by 8:00 am sharp. Whereas he had told them that we might do it by 8 provided that we are up by then. Nonetheless they woke us which was a good thing anyways as it was again going to be a fully loaded day and an early start was needed. We had planned a number of activities in Multan.


After breakfast and checking out we headed for some sightseeing before the shops opened up. Our first stop were the shrines of Hazrat Bahuddin Zakaria (R.A) and his grandson Hazrat Rukn-e-Alam (R.A).






Hazrat Bahauddin Zakariya was a Sufi of Suhrawardiyya order (tariqa). His Moseleum or shrine is situated in the heart of Multan city. His full name was Al-Sheikh Al-Kabir Sheikh-ul-Islam Baha-ud-Din Abu Muhammad Zakaria Al-Qureshi Al-Asadi Al Hashmi.
Sheikh Baha-ud-Din Zakariya known as Bahawal Haq was born at Kot Kehror, a town of Layyah District near Multan, Punjab, Pakistan, around 1170.



The mausoleum of Shah Rukn-e-Alam is also situated on the fort mound very close to the shrine of Hazrat Bahauddin Zakariya. The Shaikh was the son of Pir Sadar-Al-Din Arif born at Multan on the 9th of Friday Ramazan 649/26 November 1251. He was the grandson and successor of Shaikh Baha-Al-Din Zakariya.






Shaikh Rukn-i-Alam (Rukn-al-Din) died on the 7th of Friday (735/3 Jamadial-Awwal, January 1335). He was buried in the mausoleum of his grandfather, according to his own will. After sometime, however, his coffin was transferred to the present mausoleum. It was constructed, according to a popular belief, by Ghiyas-al-Din Tughluq (1340-1350) during the days of his governorship of Depalpur, but was given by Feruz Shah Tughluq to the descendents of Shah Rukn-I-Alam for the latter’s burial. The mausoleum of Rukn-I-Alam has been admired by not only the travelers and chroniclers but also by the art-historians and archaeologist who wrote the architectural history of the subcontinent.






After visiting the shrines we went on a brief tour of the city and then in search of the famous Multani kolapuri ( sandals). These are available for both men and women.







The search turned out to be a bit disappointing as there was not that much variety available as we had anticipated. Maybe it was not the season ; these are typically summer sandals worn in hot and humid weather of Pakistan. 


Nonetheless all of us still managed to buy a lot of these chappals (sandals) for family and friends.....  :)


After the chappal business was done Samina insisted on getting some of the famous halwa ( sweet) of Multan. It seems that Multan is famous for quite a few things....  :)  So we headed towards the famous Rivari shop and bought all kinds of halwa i.e. walnut, almond, classic multani, etc.


After we had exhausted our "to do" list we headed for lunch at a restaurant recommended by Samina's friend Osman who had joined us today for our various shopping sprees. Osman is based in Multan and works for a telecom company there.


It was around 4 pm when we left Multan and headed North for Islamabad finally. All in all it was an extremely fulfilling and rewarding road trip: we had managed to get a lots of sights, shrines, shopping, sea and sand on this memorable trip.


And to cap it off we witnessed the most beautiful full lunar eclipse on our way back. It was the perfect icing on the cake!! The eclipse started when we are in between Multan and Lahore and lasted for about couple of hours. Later we found out that it was the last full lunar eclipse of 2011. The visibility was excellent as there was no cloud in the sky. And throughout it's transition we had the ring side seat as we witnessed it from the beginning till the end. To put it simply it was just awesome.


We did try to capture it's glory but apparently the lens on our camera was not powerful enough. Nonetheless I am still attaching some of our humble efforts.






It was 1 am when we finally entered Islamabad on 11th December after an exhilarating journey of 9 days.  



Friday, February 17, 2012

Road Trip: Return Journey Part 1- Friday 9.12.2011- Karachi to Multan



Time had passed by so quickly and suddenly the day to start the return journey was here. They say time flies when you are having fun and it was certainly true in our case: the days flew by like superman...  :)


For our return journey we had decided to go straight to Multan and stay there overnight. We took the N5 route. ETD was 5 am but we were only able to leave the guest house at around 5:45. It took us 45 minutes to adjust the luggage in the car: all the travel bags were tied on the roof rack and all the shopping was stuffed in the back.


After having our staple breakfast on a road side chai shop we headed north. Just before the Karachi- Hyderabad toll plaza we were stopped by the Sindh police. They started the overall act by asking for the car papers first, which were shown to them. And then when Usman told them that the car belonged to his uncle, that provided them the window of opportunity they were looking for. They became adamant that we needed a letter of authority from his uncle to drive the car on the highway. Both Usman and Balouch refused their point of view vehemently and finally it was decided to take the matter to their supervisor who was sitting in his police car nearby. The negotiations started from Rs.6000/- and ended at Rs.1000/-  ( roughly around $ 11). They were just looking for an excuse to make some money and start the day on a good note...  : P


Balouch decided to write off this expense under "sadqa for the day" head...  :D 


Nonetheless through out our journey this was the one and only time that we were harassed by the police. No where else did we encounter any trouble at all. 


After this somewhat bemusing encounter we again headed north and our plan was to stop at Bhit Shah first to visit the shrine of Hazrat Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai. For our return journey we had earmarked a number of shrines that we were planning to visit along the way. That was also one of the reasons we had decided to stay overnight in Multan as it is known as "city of saints" or "madinat-ul-auliya" and is home to the mausoleums of many sufi saints.


To visit the shrine we had to take a right turn from N5 and enter the city of Bhit shah. From the main highway the shrine was about 20 kilometres inside the city.


Hazrat Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai (1689–1752) (Sindhi: شاھ عبدالطيف ڀٽائيِ), was a Sufi scholar and saint, and is considered as the greatest poet of the Sindhi language. His most famous written work is the Shah Jo Risalo ( epic poem in Sindhi language).  His work frequently has been compared to that of RūmīShah Latif can be said to be the soul of Sindh. 


Much of Shah Bhitai’s poetry expresses the individual seeking for God in terms of well-known ballads and the negation of the ego. In Islamic tradition the seeker and the sought are both males. Shah following the Indian tradition made his individual a female. Shah’s heroine’s come mainly from the lower strata than the heroes, and yet they outshine the men. The divine is the beloved , with the feminine form associated with earth fertility, nurture, wisdom, and intuition and the masculine with rationality and logic.

The history books claim that sometime before his death, Shah threw the manuscripts of his works into the Karar lake near his village of Bhit. His reason for doing so was that his people may not understand the main theme of messages. However his disciples had some older copies of his work. and it was mainly through the efforts of a lady by the name of Mai Miamat, a disciple, who had memorised a lot of his verses. Thus by her singing the verses, his disciples were able to record his messages.

It is said that Shah longed to perform a pilgrimage to Karbala in Iraq [ the site where Hasan & Hussain were martyred ]. As he went to Kutch to board a ship for the journey, a pious man met him and said : " O saint you have always said that Bhit will be your burial place ". At this remark, Shah went back to Bhit .

.A few days before his death, he retired to his underground room and spent all his time in prayers and fasting, eating very little. After 21 days in there, he came out and having bathed himself with a large quantity of water, covered himself with a white sheet and asked his disciples to sing and start the mystic music. This went on for three days continuously till the musicians, concerned about the motionless poet, found that his soul had already left for its heavenly abode to be in the proximity of the Beloved for who he had longed for all his life. He died on 22 December 1751. The only worldly possessions he left behind were a patched cloak, a quilt and a begging bowl. 





Musicians at the shrine singing verses from Shah Jo Risalo










The visit in itself was quite a pleasant experience. There were not many people around and thus one could go about the place easily and without any hassle. There were musicians within the compound of the shrine playing a local instrument ( I am afraid I do not the name of that instrument) and singing verses from his epic poem shah jo risalo. 


From there onwards we again headed towards Multan. As per the plan our next stop was to be the Panjnad area in Punjab before hitting Multan. Panjnad is a river at the extreme end of Bahawalpur district in Punjab. Panjnad River is formed by successive confluence of the five rivers of Punjab, namely JhelumChenabRaviBeas and Sutlej. Jhelum and Ravi join Chenab, Beas joins Sutlej, and then Sutlej and Chenab join to form Panjnad 10 miles north of Uch Sharif in Bahawalpur district.


The mood in the car was jovial although all of us were feeling that we were going back too soon. The day before we had briefly discussed to stay an extra day but had decided against it as Balouch was keen to get back home at the earliest. Usman also had office on Monday: Samina, Bilal and I had another week of holidays left.


It was early afternoon when to our very pleasant surprise we came upon the shrine of Hazrat Sachal Sarmast. It was not on our list and we were also not aware that it will be right on our way. By chance Balouch happened to glance outside and saw a substantial shrine like building in the near distance, closer to the main highway. By the time we stopped to ask a passer by about it we had crossed it's turning. Nonetheless we still decided to take a u-turn and go back to visit the shrine because we saw it as a direct invitation from the saint himself: and it is impolite to turn down such invitations..  :) 













Sachal Sarmast (1739-1829) was a renowned Sindhi Sufi poet during the Kalhora era. Abdul Wahab was his real name and "Sachal" was the name he used in his own poetry. Sachu means truth in Sindhi and Sachalu means truthful. Sarmast means mystic in Sindhi and Urdu. Suchal Sarmast literally means 'truthful mystic'. 

Sachal Sarmast was an ardent follower of Wahdat-ul-Wujood ( unity of existence), an Islamic Philosophy synonymous with Hamah Oost ( all from One).

Sachal Sarmast (Mian Abdul Wahab), the great mystic of Sindh, is the leading Sufi poet of distinction who composed verses on philosophy and Sufism. He is known as second Mansoor ul Hajj ( another great mystic and sufi of Iraq) because of his poetry and philosophy. Sache Dino, Sachoo (the truthful) and Sachal Sarmast were radical Sufi pursuits with which he challenged the rigid mindset of the clergy of his times.

Also called 'shair-e- haft zaban ' (poet in seven languages) as he composed poetical pieces in Arabic, Sindhi, Seraiki, Punjabi, Urdu, Persian and others, that is replete with Divine Love.


Again there was a very interesting chapter on this saint in the book that I was carrying; Allah kay wali ( friends/saints of Allah) by Khan Asif: One of the ruler of his times had an only son who fell fatally ill. When the boy was close to death the ruler went to this saint and asked him to pray for the boy's life. Hazrat Sachal refused saying that what has been decreed by the Divine Being cannot be changed as he could see in loh-e-mehfooz ( Sacred Tablet) that the Almighty had decreed death for the boy. But the ruler was very adamant and did not leave his side, begging him to pray for his son. It was against the saint's nature to return someone empty handed and therefore after much persistence by the ruler the saint agreed to his wishes.


After the ruler left the saint prayed to God and said that he was well aware of His decree and that it cannot be changed. Since the principle was that "jaan kay badlaiy jaan" ( a death for a death) therefore the saint prayed to God to take his son instead of the ruler's. Slowly the ruler's son started getting better and the day he was declared fit and healthy was the day that the saint's son was buried in his grave.


Today the journey had become somewhat spiritual for us and we were looking forward to visiting all the shrines in Multan tomorrow.


It was also evident looking at both the shrines that their architecture and design were very similar but then that was expected as they both lived during Kalhora era in Sindh. Hazrat Sachal was thirteen when Hazrat Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai passed away.  


After stopping for lunch at a road side chai shop we headed towards Multan. It was our full aim to visit Panjnad today. However the journey had become longer for us due to these extra stops that we had made. And by the time the sun had set we were at the borders of Sindh crossing over to Punjab. 

It had become dark and for Panjnad we had to steer off our N5 route and take a detour of 2 hours one way. Common sense prevailed and we decided to forego Panjnad and head directly towards Multan. It was not worth the effort to drive extra time just to reach the place in the middle of the night: we would not have been able to see anything in the dark!

It was after midnight when we reached Multan. A friend of Usman's, Saif, had booked a nice guest house, continental guest house, for us. He was waiting for us at the entrance of the city to guide us to the place. We followed his motorcycle.

The guest house was very clean with spacious rooms. The bathrooms were also well maintained and up to par. After a very long journey we all hit the sack.

Missed opportunity of the day: Panjnad! 




















Sunday, January 22, 2012

Road trip: Day 6 & 7 Wednesday & Thursday 7.12.2011/8.12.2011: Sights, sounds and shops of Karachi



Most of the photographs in this post have been taken by Bilal Hameed. A few were taken by Usman from his mobile. The picture of M.A. Jinnah in sherwani has been taken from urdupoint.com




Although the desire to go and thoroughly visit the Makran coastal highway again was very strong but we erred towards caution and decided to get the car checked first thing in the morning on Wednesday; it was making some funny noise the day before. We were suppose to head back towards Islamabad on Friday and did not want  to take any undue chances.
So Usman and Balouch took the car to the mechanic for a thorough check-up after breakfast. Bilal decided to visit his bank’s head office in Karachi and meet the executives there. Samina and I spent a lazy morning in bed, chilling and gossiping.
We had expected the car work not to take more than a couple of hours but due to various delays one way or the other Usman and Balouch came back mid afternoon. Good news was that there was nothing wrong with the car; all it needed was some oiling on brake pads.... or something of the sort as I am not too savy about such matters.
Since we had lost half of the daylight so we decided to start our shopping from today onwards and also do some sightseeing in Karachi. Originally we had dedicated Thursday for shopping and relative visits.  


It was the first time Balouch was visiting Karachi and he was very keen to see the city. So we gave him the front passenger seat to take in all the views unhindered...  :)
We hit Zamzama street first for shopping as that was closest to our guest house. And also because we were waiting for Manzoor and he was in office at that time.
Samina and I hit some boutiques from where I bought some stuff thus formal opening our trip’s mad shopping spree.... Little did I know that I have opened a Pandora’s box....  ;)
From there onwards till the evening of the next day was just one big shopping blur......
Manzoor took us to Zainab market, Sadar, Gulf Plaza, some shop called “Corporate” near boat basin and Tariq Road. Apparently he knew all these places which had really nice stuff but at very affordable prices. We went to factory outlets of Levis where a T-shirt was around Rs. 400/-. The same T-shirt was around Rs.1200/- or so in Islamabad.
Needless to say that both Usman and Samina went a little mad with their shopping after looking at the prices... :) I was particularly surprised with Usman as it was the first time that I have seen a man shop so patiently and with so meticulous detail. He tried on everything and then bought that looked the best on him. Both he and Samina also bought a lot of gifts for family and friends. But undoubtedly Usman was the shopaholic king of our trip and bought stuff worth Rs. 50000/-.. Yes!! That’s 50 K!!   :)
With the amount of shopping that they did and some of our additional stuff,  on our return journey to Islamabad we had to tie our luggage on the top rack of the car to make room for the extra stuff that we had picked up...  
I really wanted to post a “before shopping” and “ after shopping” picture of the car but unfortunately we do not have any picture of the car with the luggage tied overhead.

In between shopping we also did some sightseeing. We passed by the shrine of Hazrat Abdallah Shah Ghazi (R.A) and paid our respects from outside.


Abdullah Shah Ghazi is considered to be patron saint of Karachi. He is widely revered in Pakistan. Legend has it that due to the saint's closeness to God, the city has been protected from sea related disasters such as cyclones. His shrine is right along the seaside in Clifton area. Consequently a  famous myth about the shrine is that Karachi never had a tropical disaster in a thousand year because of the shrine's blessing.
This myth gets one thinking hard as it has been seen lately and previously as well that whatever tropical storms that were slated to hit Karachi would somehow change course and veer off towards another direction, always missing Karachi's shoreline... hmmmmm....
Some more sights of Karachi...





A traditional yogurt drink, Lassi



We also briefly visited Manzoor’s house where he showed us his “sea offerings” collections. Beautiful and unique sea shells and fossils that he and his sister had picked up on the beaches of Maldives and Sri Lanka.





It was also at his place that we tasted Sharifah fruit for the first time; Sharifah is not easily available in Islamabad. He had sharifah trees in his garden.



 On Thursday late afternoon after we were done with all the shopping we decided to visit the Mausoleum of the founder of the nation Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah. Even though all of us except for Balouch had been to Karachi previously many times but had never visited the place. This time as we were playing tourists so we decided to go the whole nine yards....  :)




Muhammad Ali Jinnah ( December 25, 1876 – September 11, 1948) was a Muslim lawyer, politician, statesman and the founder of Pakistan. He is popularly and officially known in Pakistan as Quaid-e-Azam ( "Great Leader") and Baba-e-Qaum  ("Father of the Nation").





Visiting the mausoleum was a learning experience for all of us. I was always under the impression that only  Quaid-e-Azam was buried there. But it seems that some other notable figures from his time including his sister, Fatimah Jinnah were also there.






Next to the mausoleum was a museum full of his personal artifacts. It was again a pleasure to see his belongings. The ones I literally drooled over were his 2 cars: a Packard and a rolls Royce.. I love vintage cars!!





His living quarters. In the background is the picture of his second wife Rattanbai.



His golf collection
During his stay in England, the culture there had greatly influenced his personal preferences, particularly when it came to dress. Jinnah donned Western style clothing and he pursued the fashion with fervor. It is said he owned over 200 hand-tailored suits which he wore with heavily starched shirts with detachable collars. It is also alleged that he never wore the same silk tie twice. Although in his later years he was most commonly seen wearing Sherwani and Karakul hat which subsequently came to be known as "Jinnah cap".




On Wednesday evening Manzoor also took us to this restaurant called Farouge where we had the best Lebanese food; the chicken was really amazing.

On our last night in Karachi, after a very hectic day of shopping and sightseeing ,we came back to the guest house with take away food. To round off the trip we played a game of luddoo in our usual style, with Manzoor winning the game fair and square.

Tomorrow we were to start our journey back home....